The world of perfumery, like many other professional sectors, has for many years seen the prevalent presence of men at the head of international fashion houses or in the role of perfumers, the creators of perfumes with an extraordinary sense of smell. Fortunately over time the trend has changed and, thanks to the success of some pioneers in the sector such as Germaine Cellier or Joséphine Catapano, today it is possible to find many women perfumers in the laboratories that churn out iconic fragrances for the most acclaimed brands on the market, or at the top of some prestigious internationally renowned fashion houses.
Unlike many male colleagues, often firmly anchored to tradition, the women in perfumery they have almost always stood out for their courage to dare and overturn the rules, finding themselves already outside the comfort zone of a historically elitist, chauvinist and self-referential sector. Based on our rich catalog of niche fragrances, we have selected three: female noses contemporary who, with their work and their talent, demonstrate every day that perfumes and perfumery are now totally genderless, open to anyone's contribution, skills and passion.
Patricia de Nicolaï
Nicolaï Parfumeur-Creator
Being the great-granddaughter of Pierre Guerlain (founder of the French fashion house of the same name), Patricia de Nicolaï she has always been used to living in contact with perfumes. After studying at the famous ISIPCA in Versailles and starting to work steadily in the perfume industry during the 80s, Patricia she chose to create her own line of perfumes together with her husband, with the desire to have more creative freedom and fewer restrictions imposed by marketing. The first boutique Nicolaï Parfumeur-Creator opened its doors in November 1989 in Paris, offering visitors the opportunity to see the laboratory in which the young artist created her fragrances with enthusiasm and skill. To date, the brand can boast several boutiques in the French capital and London, as well as a place of honor among internationally renowned niche perfume houses. In addition to original and nuanced mixes, designer perfumes and candles Nicolai they can boast a very high concentration of natural ingredients and the total absence of preservatives and artificial colourings.
New York Intense it is one of the most iconic designer fragrances Patricia de Nicolaï, an amber, spicy and citrusy olfactory masterpiece considered by fragrance expert Luca Turin to be one of the best perfumes ever created in the world.
Olivia giacobetti
Diptyque, Frederic Malle, Penhaligon's
Olivia giacobetti he is one of the most highly rated and acclaimed French perfumers in modern perfumery. After starting to work in the sector for the legendary Annick Goutal at the age of 16, she worked as an assistant perfumer within the Robertet group (historic French producer of aromas and fragrances) and founded Iska, her own laboratory of perfumes. Over the years, as a perfumer, Olivia giacobetti he created iconic fragrances for fashion houses of the caliber of Guerlain, Diptyque, Hermès, Fendi, L'Artisan Parfumeur, Hugo Boss, Frederic Malle and Penhaligon's, prestigious and important brands of traditional and niche perfumery. The strength of his creations lies in the contrasts and in the perfect combination of synthetic and natural ingredients present within the perfumes, which express his talent and his desire to leave his mark with original and never banal fragrances. His desire to enhance and enhance the fig notes with perfumes of the caliber of Philosykos (Diptyque) influenced the choices of many illustrious colleagues, who created similar perfumes for other equally famous brands.
En passerby, green and flowery perfume made for Frederic Malle, is one of the best known and celebrated creations of Olivia giacobetti. It evokes the delicate smell of lilac carried by the wind, with the addition of a cucumber note that is as "strange" as it is balanced and harmoniously perfect. A real gem!
Sofia Bardelli
In Astra
After being selected and admitted to the prestigious Institute of Perfumery in Grasse (legendary city on the French Riviera considered "the world capital of perfume"), Sofia Bardelli she worked as an analytical perfumer for an important French company, honing her skills and knowledge of synthetic and natural raw materials. In 2020, together with her sister Fabiola, she founded In Astra, a niche perfume house that wants to pay homage to the beauty and poetry of the most famous stars, combining them with its qualitatively exceptional olfactory creations.
Nail is one of the names alternatives of the North Star, the famous triple star located in the constellation Ursa Minor. Sofia Bardelli said he used contrasting notes to represent the various facets of the stars, specifically an intriguing and animalic ambergris, resinous incense and woody cypress. The additional notes of ginger and juniper complete a sparkling and decidedly engaging olfactory mix.
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